The Definitive Story of the T-Shirt
Today, the T-shirt is a symbol of modern fashion and has helped to create a huge textile and fashion industry that is worth more than two-billion dollars to the global retail trade. Although the unlikely birth of the T-shirt was not a spectacular event, this simple piece of clothing was to change the fashions and styles of cultures for many generations. The T-Shirt would eventually be used as a political tool to protest and, at certain times and locations in history, as a symbol for revolution and change.
The t-shirt was a basic piece of underwear that was worn by most people. In the late 19th-century, the union suit (also called long johns), was a popular choice. It was widely worn in America and Europe. This modest knitted one-piece covered the entire body from the neck to the wrists, ankles, and neck. It was popular across all classes and generations. The designs pièce de résistance featured a drop flap in the back for ease of use in the old outhouse. Underwear manufacturers saw an opportunity to offer an alternative to the traditional, cumbersome design. Knitted material can be difficult to cut and sew seams so with cotton, a radical shift towards mass production could occur.
Europe was changing and as Americans continued to itch and sweat, a simple “T”-shaped template was created from a piece a cotton cloth. The two pieces were then faced and stitched together at a lowly European workshop. It was half of a pair of long-johns, but it quickly took on a new life. Henry T. Ford, who created the first production line in the world, was the catalyst for the Industrial Revolution. The ideas of efficiency, functionalism, and utilitarianism became mainstream concepts across the globe, including Europe. Many began questioning the Puritanism of the past. Victorian buttoned down ideas of modesty gave way to scantier, scantier swimsuits, ankle bearing skirts, and shorter-sleeved tops. The t-shirt was set to be conscripted into the army as World War One approached.
According to historians, the first documented incident of the introduction the T-shirt to America was during World War One. It was then that US soldiers noticed the light cotton uniforms worn by European soldiers. American soldiers were furious, their government still wassuing woolen uniforms. This wasn’t fashion, it just happened to be a tactical military disadvantage. How could a sniper with sweaty eyes and a burning sensation in his face aim his rifle? Although the US army didn’t react as quickly as they would have liked, the practical and lightweight t-shirt would soon be back in the hands of the American mainstream consumer.
Their easily identifiable shape and desire for a better title led to the creation of the term “T-shirt”. People all over the world adopted the new, more comfortable alternative. A few American experts believe that the name was invented in 1932 by Howard Jones, who asked “Jockey”, to design a sweat-absorbing shirt for the USC Trojans football club. The US army disputes the claim that the word’s origins are from army training shirts. However, practicality soon made it a reality. Another theory is less well-known and more graphic in its interpretation. The idea that shorter arms were similar to the shape and size of an amputee’s trunk was a popular one. While this theory cannot be proven, it does have a dark ring of truth. The T-shirt was finally made standard underwear during World War II by all ranks of the U.S. Army, and Navy. The T-shirt was originally intended to be worn under the skin, but soldiers who were involved in construction or battle games, or those based in warmer climates, would often wear a uncovered T-shirt. Life magazine published a cover story featuring a photo showing a soldier wearing a T shirt with the text “Air Corps Gunnery School” on July 13, 1942.
The European trend of wearing T-shirts as outerwear, mainly inspired by the new US army uniforms in the early years after World War Two was popularized by the American civilian population. 1948, the New York Times reported on a unique marketing tool that was used to promote Thomas E. Dewey’s campaign for New York Governor. It was the first “logan T-Shirt” to be recorded. The message read “Dew it for Dewey”, which was closely copied by the “I Like Ike T-shirts” in Dwight D. Eisenhower’s presidential campaign.
In the 1950s, florida-based entrepreneurs began to decorate t-shirts with Floridian resort names or cartoon characters. Tropix Togs’ founder and creator, Sam Kantor (Miami entrepreneur), created the first graphic tee-shirt catalog. They were the first licensee of Walt Disney characters such as Mickey Mouse and Davy Crockett. Later, other companies entered the tee shirt printing industry. Sherry Manufacturing Company was also located in Miami.
Sherry started his business in 1948. Quinton Sandler, the founder and owner of the screen printed scarf company, quickly spotted the new trend and expanded it to become the largest screen-print licensed apparel producer in the United States. Soon more and more celebrities were seen on national TV sporting this new risqué apparel including John Wayne, and Marlon Brando. In 1955, James Dean gave the T Shirt street cred in the classic movie “Rebel Without a Cause”. The T-Shirt quickly became a symbol of rebellion and youth. The initial outcry and furore soon subsided, and even the American Bible Belt was able to see its practicality.
The basic cotton T-Shirt became a commercial success because people started to tie dye and screenprint it in the 60’s. The T-Shirt’s versatility was increased by advances in printing and dying. There were many variations to choose from, including the Tank Top, Muscle Shirt and Scoop Neck. Many independent T-shirt printers produced copies of “Guerrillero Heroico”, or Heroic Guerilla, during this period of cultural experimentation, and upheaval. This famous portrait of Ernesto “Che” Guevara was taken by Alberto “Korda” Diaz. It has been referred to as the most popular image in the history photography, mainly due to the rise of T-shirts.
The 1960’s saw the birth of the “Ringer shirt”, which became a standard fashion for youth and rock-n rollers. Screen-printing and tie dyeing were also popularized in this decade. “Plastisol”, an ink that is more durable and stretches better, was created in 1959. This allowed for more variety in tee-shirt designs. New T-shirt designs were introduced quickly as textile technologies improved. These included the tank top, A-shirt (famously known as the “wife beater”) and muscle shirt.
Throughout the Psychedelic era, more and more T-shirts became iconic. The burgeoning music festivals in America and Western Europe saw a surge in tie-died t shirts. It became a common dress code for West Coast hippies by the late 1960’s. Band T-shirts, which were cheaply printed and sold at live gigs, concerts, and other events, became another very popular type of T-shirt. However, their prices have risen dramatically.
1975: Vivienne Westwood opens the “Sex” boutique at 430 King’s Road in London. She sells her new Punk-style tees, including the infamous “God Save The Queen”. Punk brought about a boom in independent fashion designers, especially t-shirt makers. Many modern designs still pay homage to this rebellious and anarchic period.
The 1980’s saw the emergence of corporate funding that changed the face of the T shirt market. Slogan T-shirts gained popularity again. “Choose Life” was made to promote George Micheal’s debut album. “Frankie Says” helped push a string controversial singles to #1 on the UK charts. Many T-shirts were sold by bands, football teams, political parties and advertising agencies. The iconic “Feed the World” Tshirt was a noble exception. It was created to raise awareness and funds for Band Aid’s original and groundbreaking charity event.
T-Shirt production and printing technologies improved dramatically in the 80’s, 90’s. Early forms of D.T.G printing (Direct to Garment Transfer), increased the availability and volume. The American T-Shirt was a commodity item in the apparel sector, and this was noticed by financial circles.
The industry was quickly dominated by corporate branding. The market was flooded with a new generation of T-shirt designs, which promoted conformity and loyalty to a brand, such as Nike, instead of individuality. This uninspiring tradition continues to this day, as illustrated by the iconic “Vintage82” T-shirt from Next. This design was quickly copied and sold in large quantities within a short time. Similar designs exist, but have a shorter cultural shelf-life.
A recent movement to repoliticize the T shirt has allowed pressure groups and charities to reach a wider audience. At the anti-Iraq rally, over one million people marched through London wearing a wide range of anti-war, anti Bush and anti Blair T-shirts. A similar example to the Band Aid event was The Make Poverty History campaign in 2005 which received global media coverage. Soon after Vivienne Westwood re-emerged in the Tshirt world with her new slogan T shirt “I am not a terror, please don’t imprison me”, Catherine Hamnett, another well-known British fashion designer, is known for her protest T shirts. These include her work to highlight Third World Debt and the Aids epidemic. Catherine was quoted recently as saying that political slogan shirts make it seem like they are participating in democratic action, when in reality they have only done a little shopping. Although this may be true, they still attract a lot of media attention to any cause.
T-shirts have been an integral part of every fashionable wardrobe for many years. The industry has made it possible to offer more styles and cuts thanks to technological advances. These T-shirts, which can be extended to the knees, are very popular among skaters and hip hop. Seasons change. However, the female market is now more open to tighter-fitting, cropped T-shirts that show off the midriff. The rise of the “hoodie” (or hooded long-sleeved T shirt) cannot be ignored. It is quickly becoming an essential part of any street-savvy fashionistas’s collection.
Recent consumer backlash has been massive against the corporate and licensed T-shirt market’s branded conformity. Consumers are finally regaining their sense of individuality. People today don’t want to be bound by the idea of “brand loyalty”. People want to be able to express their personality, political beliefs and sense of humor. Many people are now designing their own t-shirts using an array of D.I.Y. online printing services, such as “Cafe Press”, and “Threadless”, to name just two. Many people do not have the time or inclination to design their own artwork. Thus, the rise of the independent Tshirt designer. Artists, graphic designers, and other renegades in the fashion industry are starting to be noticed. Originality is the greatest asset a modern Tshirt can have. This quality will be in high demand for many years to come.
Source: Chris Odell